Canvas trainers with tailored trousers- a question of the right garments, and attitude
What’s Claudio Wearing
Layering polo shirts over button down shirts. Think this started in the 70s and greta way to make use of items which are off season. Cadaques polo over Girona button down. Give it a try !
What’s Claudio Wearing
Heavy duty guns coming out for cold chilly days like this. Penedes shetland cardigan and McGee tweed Fernando trousers keeping lil old me warm, with Picasso Oxblood brogues and wool Piazza flat cap on the top there. Winter gonna be just fine !
What’s Claudio Wearing Wednesday
.. on a Tuesday ! Thought provoking and left of field classic 1960s casual wear, madras shorts and knee length formal socks and pennies was all the rage back then. Since Ivy style has taken the internet by storm, this is something not seem yet and so here it is!
Fabric Suggestion 5
Sartorial Faux-pas of the Rich and Famous: the bottom button tale
How is it that one of the most elegant families of the 20th century could get such basic sartorial rules wrong? Granted that these rules are often enough meant to be broken – after all, a good does of Sprezzatura when done correctly has never hurt anyone – but in this case it has nothing to do with the nonchalance ‘I don’t care’ attitude of Sprezz (usually aptly pulled through by those who are confident enough with the knowledge of the rules). At the beginning of the 20th century, especially in the 20s and 30’s where men where mostly wearing suits (all be it the only suit in the wardrobe), there has been plenty of photographic evidence that the bottom button on a mens coat remained fastened, despite it looking nefasto. The Kennedy’s here are a great example. Impeccable style, and yet that bottom button begs to be undone. I think it’s a fall back to it’s military roots, when all buttons were done up as it would look ‘scruffy’ or ‘insubordinate’ otherwise. Also because military gear also needed to keep you warm and thus allow as less cold/wind through. Everyday ‘style’ later on started being much more popular as the jacket became mainstream, and used as a style piece rather than a necessity or a cultural obligation by the masses. This ‘rule’ is there for a reason: the coat does not sit well, the button thus ‘pulls’ if it is done up as the movement of your hips and legs impede the coat to sit naturally when walking. One may legitimately ask why is it there in the first place, and I think that it probably has to do with natural esthetics and balance. I recently saw a Sean Connery film of the late 60’s and on it he too had his grey 2 button suit all done up which surprised me (can’t seem to find a picture but here he is later on in time with the same look). Connery usually does have the bottom button correctly undone, but curiously enough throughout this particular film he doesn’t. As stated, I think that the rule didn’t sink in until men’s coats were taken as a fashion statement en mass rather than an obligation (post 60’s?). Just speculation on my part. What I do know is that it is one of the very few rules we are to consider unbreakable.
Unless you do up only the bottom button, but that takes us back to Sprezzatura only for the very brave.
‘Moscatell’ sports sweaters
The idea behind the latest knitwear was obviously the classic sports sweater used in the early part of the XX’s Century (tennis and cricket being the main ones). Although the contrast colours were usually of the club or school, the base was mostly white or off white (as they were originally made for sports). The style was great, but I thought strong colours could be added to the basic white, as it would make such a great accessory to sports coats! I did away with the cable knit as it would’ve made it too bulky to wear under a sports coat (unless the coat is one or two sizes bigger), and as you can see, a plain colour base allows for fantastic colour palettes: a sage, sky blue and plain white. Extrafine merino wool in a 12 gg knit is used and the best out there is made by the great folk at Tollegno 1900 from Biella, Italy. Made locally in Catalunya in only 40 pieces total.
Claudio Suggests 23 September 2019
Texture, patterns and colour are always so important in building up an outfit, all mixing and matching something from within. I started from a red and white University stripe oxford cotton shirt ( https://www.dnagroove.it/shop/shirts/siena29/ ) , and thought this green base (with red and off white loops) silk knitted tie was a great match as the green is the right middle-of-the-way shade. The red of course was the colour that tied the two items together, and as the stripes of the shirt are much smaller than the loops on then tie, these two blended perfectly. To anchor these a blue flannel sports coat ( https://www.dnagroove.it/shop/suits-coats/asti68/ ) seemed to be the natural choice, both for styling, the rough texture (but smooth to the touch) and not least the very subtle herringbone pattern adds to the overall style without disturbing. Once you have the top sorted, the bottom needs to be straight forward, so a light grey flannel is virtually the only choice here as you need something to contrast the dark blue coat. Shoes can either be black (Goya in this case https://www.dnagroove.it/shop/shoes-accessories/goya06/ ) or oxblood or burgundy ( https://www.dnagroove.it/shop/shoes-accessories/picasso02/ ), both equally matching the overall outfit with the oxblood adding some colour and flair. Ivy League has been a great influence to what I have done since day one, and still now is fundamental to many items I create – and thus todays Suggestion is a celebration to Americana look loved by so many Jazz heads and Modernists alike.
Claudio Suggests 10 September 2019
The perfect roll
Autumn is creeping in even in Spain although they say we still have a few more sunny spells to come (Hey! I’m playing records with 7″ vinyl this Satruday at a pool party so hopefully summer will stick around a bit longer). I haven’t worn any cotton, undershirt and jacket in a long ass time so when heavy showers appeared, I reached for something comfortable, casual, and that has the right balance between keeping me dry, warm, and looking cool. The Girona25 OCBD (Oxford Cotton Button Down) shirt in the classic plain white is my go-to shirt in these cases. Even though I will most probably see no one today out here in the woods (besides you lot reading), this shirt, a Barracuta G9, heavy weight 15 oz raw selvege denim baggies, and my trusty Botero boxing boot is all I needed. When everything looks kinda plain and standard, it’s the collar roll that makes the difference and this one is outta sight! The collar lining is very fine and detaches after the first wash, so a soft natural roll is all that shines out from the plain white. Sure you have the fine details such as locker loop, dipped back collar with back button, full front and back sewn pleat, mother of pearl buttons and the rougeness of the 140 grm oxford cotton – but its the roll that shouts out ‘hell ya!” and gives the on looker a bad-ass first impression. Made in Barcelona, currently available in a few size (more to come), check it out and get yourself a wardrobe staple. https://www.dnagroove.it/shop/shirts/girona25/
Claudio Suggests 23 September 2017
Suggestion mix matching coat and trousers keeping an eye on texture, colours and fabric weight
Let the Sun Shine In
Singing a Georgie Fame cover hopeing to get some last summer rays before the Autumn
Chatting about wearing white shoes with a suit – I think it can be done following certain pointers
Claudio Suggests 12 June 2014
Small gingham checks with large plaid checks solidly held together with solid blue. This suggestion is about starting simple and adding colours and patterns as you go along
Claudio Suggests 27 May 2014
Claudio Suggests 14 November 2011
Heavy on the shirt, soft on the remaining outfit. So when a dark pink striped tab collar shirt is used as starting point for this suggestion, I decide to go for a dotted dake blue tie and dark blue suit to match. Dig the dark brown chukka boots instead of the more obvious black lace up oxfords
Claudio Suggests 19 september 2011
Here I suggests a dark suit with white buttons, unsual choice of colour for buttons and here I will give some insight on how to land on your feet.
Claudio Suggests 23 August 2010
Wool and silk blend pink, white and sky check jacket is used as a base for this suggestion. I have matched it with seersucker white and pale pink patterned Bruno trousers, white Taormina collared shirt, silk dark blue tie and burgundy loafers. A purple silk square is added to brung out the pink checks and add some extra flair. See you at the aperitivo!
Claudio Suggests 27 July 2010
Lightweight odd jacket, orange shirt, beige bernuda shorts and coloured suede driving shoes. Think the coloured shirt and shoes allows for a plain light coloured trousers rather than a more obvious choice of dark coloured trousers to contrast the light jacket.
Claudio Suggests 12 july 2010
An odd match including checks, stripes and colours. It can be done I’s tell ya!
Claudio Suggests 17 June 2010
Double breasted suits are usually used in a somber, ceremonial way, so this time I tried to be more daring with different colours & patterns.
Claudio Suggests 30April 2010
Beautiful dark brown Recioto styled linen suit, paired with brogued LAZIO spectator shoes, Taormina tab collar shirt, silk knitted tie and a few tasty accessories. Ready for some summer peacocking?
Claudio Suggests 02 January 2010
This is the AMARONE styled-suit, bum freezer coat jacket, 3 roll 2 collar, high waisted STEFANO style trousers. MAtched with a purple and white striped Taormina shirt, blue silk tie and brogue shoes. Elegance with a hint of peacock – ness !
Claudio Suggests 17 december 2009
Ok – let see how this works out: I’ll put myself infront of the camera instead of hiding behind it. thought i’d try something different so bare with me. I hope I get better as we go along.
Claudio Suggests 25 october 2009
A beautiful light brown checked odd jacket this week will be matched with a heavy weight beige trousers and toffee coloured cord shoes, the brown and beige shading is contrasted by a burgundy merino wool knit top and cotton socks.
Claudio Suggests 25 july 2009
Here I will be suggesting a linen checked odd jacket along with beige trousers, tab collar shirt, red silk tie and suede red driving shoes! Talk about breaking the rules! Hope you enjoy it…
Claudio Suggests 27 May 2009
Finally getting back on track with this – sorry for the delays. Please take these light heartedly and as one can see these are done very lo -fi, with much improvisation. Just want to get some ideas and suggestions out to whomever may be interested. Hope I can get these on a weekly basis from now on.
Claudio suggests 27 11 2008
This weeks suggestion involves heavy wool club checked trousers matched with a merino wool 3 button collared knit top, cord button up jacket and brogue boots. Casual smart look which will always work for evening out or a day at work
Claudio Suggests 24 August 2008
This week I’m suggesting a light coloured pin stripe suit. Something out of the ordinary but still subtle if worn properly
Claudio Suggests 07 August 2008
Hot weather here so its bermudas again. DArk blue cotton bermudas with cuff, knitted makò cotton, long collared polo top with lilac and dark brown piping, and slip on dark brown driving shoes.
Smart living in CLean circumstances 2007
Another promo clip in lo-fi but high with cool emotions! Filmed in my home town of Vicenza, Italy, my good mate amnd smart dresser Andrea striding around the lovely city whilst waiting for his spare shirt to be cleaned!