What’s Claudio Wearing Wednesday
.. on a Tuesday ! Thought provoking and left of field classic 1960s casual wear, madras shorts and knee length formal socks and pennies was all the rage back then. Since Ivy style has taken the internet by storm, this is something not seem yet and so here it is!
What’s Claudio Wearing Wednesday
Classic Americana look today from the roll collar button down Girona shirt, to the Giulio chino trouser and the Penedes Letterman sweater, topped-off my baseball boots by @colchesterrubberco
Fabric Suggestions 2
Sartorial Faux-pas of the Rich and Famous: the bottom button tale
How is it that one of the most elegant families of the 20th century could get such basic sartorial rules wrong? Granted that these rules are often enough meant to be broken – after all, a good does of Sprezzatura when done correctly has never hurt anyone – but in this case it has nothing to do with the nonchalance ‘I don’t care’ attitude of Sprezz (usually aptly pulled through by those who are confident enough with the knowledge of the rules). At the beginning of the 20th century, especially in the 20s and 30’s where men where mostly wearing suits (all be it the only suit in the wardrobe), there has been plenty of photographic evidence that the bottom button on a mens coat remained fastened, despite it looking nefasto. The Kennedy’s here are a great example. Impeccable style, and yet that bottom button begs to be undone. I think it’s a fall back to it’s military roots, when all buttons were done up as it would look ‘scruffy’ or ‘insubordinate’ otherwise. Also because military gear also needed to keep you warm and thus allow as less cold/wind through. Everyday ‘style’ later on started being much more popular as the jacket became mainstream, and used as a style piece rather than a necessity or a cultural obligation by the masses. This ‘rule’ is there for a reason: the coat does not sit well, the button thus ‘pulls’ if it is done up as the movement of your hips and legs impede the coat to sit naturally when walking. One may legitimately ask why is it there in the first place, and I think that it probably has to do with natural esthetics and balance. I recently saw a Sean Connery film of the late 60’s and on it he too had his grey 2 button suit all done up which surprised me (can’t seem to find a picture but here he is later on in time with the same look). Connery usually does have the bottom button correctly undone, but curiously enough throughout this particular film he doesn’t. As stated, I think that the rule didn’t sink in until men’s coats were taken as a fashion statement en mass rather than an obligation (post 60’s?). Just speculation on my part. What I do know is that it is one of the very few rules we are to consider unbreakable.
‘Moscatell’ sports sweaters
The idea behind the latest knitwear was obviously the classic sports sweater used in the early part of the XX’s Century (tennis and cricket being the main ones). Although the contrast colours were usually of the club or school, the base was mostly white or off white (as they were originally made for sports). The style was great, but I thought strong colours could be added to the basic white, as it would make such a great accessory to sports coats! I did away with the cable knit as it would’ve made it too bulky to wear under a sports coat (unless the coat is one or two sizes bigger), and as you can see, a plain colour base allows for fantastic colour palettes: a sage, sky blue and plain white. Extrafine merino wool in a 12 gg knit is used and the best out there is made by the great folk at Tollegno 1900 from Biella, Italy. Made locally in Catalunya in only 40 pieces total.
Claudio Suggests 23 September 2019
Texture, patterns and colour are always so important in building up an outfit, all mixing and matching something from within. I started from a red and white University stripe oxford cotton shirt ( https://www.dnagroove.it/shop/shirts/siena29/ ) , and thought this green base (with red and off white loops) silk knitted tie was a great match as the green is the right middle-of-the-way shade. The red of course was the colour that tied the two items together, and as the stripes of the shirt are much smaller than the loops on then tie, these two blended perfectly. To anchor these a blue flannel sports coat ( https://www.dnagroove.it/shop/suits-coats/asti68/ ) seemed to be the natural choice, both for styling, the rough texture (but smooth to the touch) and not least the very subtle herringbone pattern adds to the overall style without disturbing. Once you have the top sorted, the bottom needs to be straight forward, so a light grey flannel is virtually the only choice here as you need something to contrast the dark blue coat. Shoes can either be black (Goya in this case https://www.dnagroove.it/shop/shoes-accessories/goya06/ ) or oxblood or burgundy ( https://www.dnagroove.it/shop/shoes-accessories/picasso02/ ), both equally matching the overall outfit with the oxblood adding some colour and flair. Ivy League has been a great influence to what I have done since day one, and still now is fundamental to many items I create – and thus todays Suggestion is a celebration to Americana look loved by so many Jazz heads and Modernists alike.
Claudio Suggests 23 September 2017
Suggestion mix matching coat and trousers keeping an eye on texture, colours and fabric weight
Let the Sun Shine In
Singing a Georgie Fame cover hopeing to get some last summer rays before the Autumn
Claudio Suggests May 11 2010
Beautiful slim fit harrington jacket matched with raw heavy weight selvege denim and brown lace up boots
Claudio Suggests 02 January 2010
This is the AMARONE styled-suit, bum freezer coat jacket, 3 roll 2 collar, high waisted STEFANO style trousers. MAtched with a purple and white striped Taormina shirt, blue silk tie and brogue shoes. Elegance with a hint of peacock – ness !
Claudio Suggests 17 december 2009
Ok – let see how this works out: I’ll put myself infront of the camera instead of hiding behind it. thought i’d try something different so bare with me. I hope I get better as we go along.
Claudio Suggests 20 september 2009
Autumn is fast approaching thus I will be suggesting and outfit which at first may seem slightly daring to some, but it all works out fine in my eyes once the final picture is taken. Have a look and judge for your self
